DC State Fair – Even You Can Enter the Fermented Vegetable Contest

Our fridge: filled with delicious things in glass jars

 

Our own DC State Fair celebrates the growers, the makers, the brewers, the bakers and the fermenters.

Fermenting vegetables?

It’s not just for the Germans, Koreans and bachelors who never clean their fridge.

You can do it – do it this weekend.

You don’t have to grow your own veggies to ferment, just bebop yourself down to your farmers market, buy some stuff to ferment and get to it.

It does take a little planning. Get details below, but you will need non-iodized salt (such as sea or Kosher), an acceptable vessel (a clean glass jar with a lid or a crock) and some recipes call for non-chlorinated water.  You don’t need full-blown canning supplies. See how easy it really is:

  • Dr. Ben Kim: He wants you to buy stuff from him, so block those pop-ups, but his How to Make Kim Chi gives step-by-step pictures and cheer leading.

Once you’ve filled a few jars of fermented, locally grown, organic, hand-picked, biked-it-home epicurean treasure, you’re ready to register for the DC State Fair Fermented Vegetable Contest(Note: Your veggies do not need to be organic, local or transported by bike to be eligible to compete.  DC State Fair suggests reading over these researched recipes for fermenting success.  Only 50 entries can be accepted so get busy and register, $5 per entry.)

If your drunk roommate tosses your kimchi at 4:00 a.m. thinking it’s an appropriate time to clean the fridge, you should still join the 2012 DC State Fair fun Saturday, September 22nd, 2012.  As part of the Barracks Row Fall Festival along 8th Street SE on Capitol Hill, there will be a little something for everyone.

Even your hungover roommate.

Fall Gardening – Double Up and Catch Up

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Fall gardening.

Fall gardening frustrates me. We don’t have deer coming through our DC neighborhood but the squirrels pick up the slack for garden carnage. Fresh pots of soil read as “First Month Free” on a U-Store It for squirrels.

We also loose the midday sun behind the neighbor’s house way before first frost sets in, abruptly turning our full-sun back yard into a shade garden.

As a glutton for punishment, I’ll slide in under the wire this weekend with a scaled-back agenda of spinach, mesclun mix and radishes.

The fall gardening opportunity for some crops has passed, but check the following resources for your zone to feed that fall gardening bug:

  • Southern Exposure Seed Exchange: Growing Guides & Library (excellent info for everyone but planting dates are for the Southeast and mid-Atlantic)
  • Washington Gardener Magazine: The August Enews gardening checklist can’t be beat for the mid-Atlantic
  • Johnny’s Selected Seeds – Growing Guides (some of the tools are spreadsheets, but good info)
  • D. Landreth Seed Co – No “when to plant” look-ups, but sit and watch their home page as images of what you should be planting now rotate through and you’ll get excited for fall gardening.  Since 1784… Landreth has been around.

If you’re kind of done with gardening for a few months – you enjoy it but don’t really want to talk about what happened over the summer – don’t sweat it.  Fall harvest festivals abound with pick your own apples, pumpkins corn and ready-to-buy jams and pickles.

If you’re hard-core, you stopped reading this post at about the second line, you already have most of your fall seeds in the ground.

But do you have your bulbs ordered?

Herbs – Sweet Woodruff Sachet Shortcut

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Sweet woodruff caught my eye as May Wine recipes flew around my April twitter feed.  I wanted to grow it then realized it already graced our garden.

Sweet woodruff’s culinary and medicinal uses make me almost as excited as its household use as a linen sachet and pest deterrent.

As easy as sewing sachet pillows may be, the likelihood of me dragging out the sewing machine anytime soon ranks up there with me waxing the car and organizing my storage unit.

The shortcut: spice bags.  I’ve cheated before by stuffing dried herbs into old socks and stockings and placing them unceremoniously into my dresser drawers and closet shelves.  But muslin or cotton spice-bag-sachet-pillows are almost cute enough to give as gifts, especially if you package them in a handsome box with nice tissue paper and fine ribbon.

See the photo above for the easiest how-to ever.

A Few Notes:

1.  Dry herbs before using for a sachet.  Sweet woodruff dries very quickly – I cut it, leave it in a bowl covered with a cloth napkin or tea towel for a few days and it’s ready.  Other herbs can be tied with dental floss and hung to dry on a hanger for a few weeks or placed in a food dehydrator.

2.  Tie the closure tight so little crunchy bits of herbs stay within the bag as it bounces around in use.

3.  Tie something you can undo, like a bow, so you can empty and refresh the herbs when needed.

4.  Wondering where to buy reusable cotton or muslin spice bags?  I’ve seen them at the grocery store and city hardware stores (in the kitchen utensil section), fancy kitchen supply stores and for cheap online.  Just search “reusable spice bags” to find a supplier.

5.  Sachet “recipes” are endless if you’d like to go beyond a single herb.  Here are a few to get you started.

6.  This can easily be turned into a crafty project to do with kids, whether you make them for your own home or to give as gifts.

Having spice bags on hand saves time in the kitchen and, as it happens, in the sachet-making department.

DIY – Pin It to Win It Clothespin Bag from Onion Sack and Coat Hanger

 

Now your clothesline needs a clothespin bag.

Search Amazon or Etsy to do it up right with an attractive vintage-looking one like my mom had, or make one yourself for free in a few minutes.

Materials Needed:

1.  Plastic mesh vegetable sack used for onions or potatoes

2.  Wire coat hanger (I took the trouser wire off a broken fancy wooden suit hanger)

3.  Wire cutters and/or wire snips

See the photoset above for the basic idea and cruise internet pictures of clothespin bags if  you’ve never seen a clothespin bag.

A Few Notes:

1.  Before assembling, test that the mesh of your bag isn’t so big that clothespins fall through.  If you are going to the grocery store to buy produce for the bag, take a clothespin with you to check.

2.  You don’t have to weave every hole of the mesh through the coat hanger, you can skip a few holes between weave points.

3.  If you have a really deep mesh bag but don’t want a really deep clothespin bag, customize your depth by cutting some off the top before weaving it onto the coat hanger.

4.  A nice perk to the plastic mesh bag – it doesn’t hold water at all and it dries super fast after a rain.  If your clothespins live outside in the bag, they’ll dry quickly, too.

5.  I’ve used mine for about a week and love it.  The only small drawback is the clothespins can get a little caught in the mesh as I take them out.  Given my bag took very little tools/time/skill/materials to assemble, and it looks cute, I’m OK with it taking an an occasional extra half-second to grab them from the bag.

Whether you’re hanging laundry outside to show off your cute linens or to save the planet, you’re in it to win it with a totally reclaimed clothespin bag.

DIY – Take-it-Down-to-Party Clothesline

 

Airing out your laundry isn’t just for TMZ.  Drying in the sun brings benefits other than saving electricity.  There’s a knack to it, but like all things done for millenia but abandoned for progress, the internet can tell you how to do it.

Staking out a sunny spot to dry your wash can be easy if you happen to have existing structures to support your clothesline.  For city dwellers, especially in the Mid Atlantic and Northeast where back yards are narrow and often bordered by high wooden fences, take a look around for a pair of potential clothesline anchors.  Consider between the corner of a tall deck and the fence, between a pair of opposing windows with sturdy iron security bars or between a pair of tall iron staircases such as we have.

Wet clothes are heavy, so your clothesline supports need to be secure.  Don’t bother tying it to that rickety wooden fence post that sways when you lean on it.  If you live in a condo or a neighborhood with an association, check the bylaws before you buy your clothespins, clotheslines can be considered shabby and may not be allowed.

For the industrious, a few ideas for building a traditional clothesline from scratch are here, here, and here.

See the photoset above for a simple take-it-down-at-will clothesline for a busy apartment building back yard.

A Few Notes:

1.  Our single line hangs a set of sheets or about a half-load of laundry (from our less-than-full-sized washer), which is fine.  I’m not doing this to unplug the dryer for good, I don’t want to inflict our underpants on our apartment building.

2.  I used a turnbuckle I picked up for cheap to make the clothesline easily detachable.  In theory, I can take up the line slack with it but it’s tiny and have much of an impact.  Any kind of sturdy carabiner or clip will work.

3.  To secure the clothesline to the staircase, I wrapped the line multiple times then tied a square knot.  I used two half hitches to knot the line to the turnbuckle.

4.  Give your laundry a shake as you take it down to knock off any hitchhiking bugs.

5.  You do need clothes pins.  It may drape heavily as you hang it but laundry lightens as it dries – a slight breeze will send your favorite tee off to the dirty corner of the yard (or alley).  Thankfully, hardware stores, drug stores, dollar stores and Target sell clothes pins.

6.  A laundry basket rules, but if you’re short on space, a clean reusable shopping bag or two works well.  It gets damp from the wet laundry but you can clothespin it to the line inside-out and upside down (pinning the bottom to the line so it doesn’t catch wind like a sail and blow away).  It’ll be dry before your laundry is.  (For large capacity, there’s always the mega-useful Ikea bag.)

String one up and soon you’ll be singing to your clothes out on the party line.

Gorilla Glue Giveaway – Converting the Cold Frame to a Summer Grow Box with Gorilla Glue

 

This post is #4 in a 5-part series. Thanks to the great folks at Gorilla Glue, The Soil Toil has 5 Gorilla Glue Prize Packs to give away!  What’s included in the Prize Pack and how to enter to win is all detailed here.

To enter to win, simply leave a comment on this postA winner was randomly selected on June 16th at 8 am.  However, you can still share what project you have in need of Gorilla Glue or testify to Gorilla Tough awesomeness by telling of projects completed with Gorilla Glue products.  The winner from today’s post will be  randomly selected Saturday June 16th, 2012, and announced at 8:00 am EST has already been chosen.

If you blog, tweet, pin, tumblr, Facebook, G+ or StumbleUpon, feel free to leave your site or social media handle in your comment and share the Gorilla Glue contest throughout your networks.

This Gorilla Glue project fills two needs for our garden: where to store my cold frame when not in use and needing a place to keep tender plants out of rats’ reach.

It struck me a few weeks ago – if I remove the glass lid and Univent opener from my cold frame, I convert it to a grow box for seedling basil and summer greens – two items our neighborhood rats developed a taste for this year.  By making a wire mesh (hardware cloth) lid, I won’t have to stash the cold frame – it’ll just remain in use as a safe house for tasty tender plants.

The wood used is from a recalled crib.  Odd, yes, and we loved this crib.  We were the third or fourth family to use it but drop-rail cribs are now banned from re-sale and I made the executive decision to cut it into pieces to salvage the oak.

Click the pictures above to view the cold frame conversion.

A Few Notes:

1.  Check for fit by fitting the pieces to be glued together before applying any glue.

2.  Rats can chew through hardware cloth, but they don’t just do it for sport.  Hopefully they’ll leave this alone.

3.  I needed to keep this simple and quick – I did not make an elaborate lid, just one that works.

4.  Gorilla Glue does not let go once dried.  Protect your work area accordingly and do not glue too closely to your clamps or weights, it expands while drying.

5. Read the bottle’s full instructions before using.

(#6 and #7 added after initial publishing)

6.  For more information on my cold frame, start here.

7.  It takes a little patience to get the hardware cloth flat enough along the wood in preparation for gluing.  Using pliers to shape the wire and lots of lamps and/or weights helps a ton.

The new lid has been in use for about a week now.  It works beautifully – it’s lightweight and no rats have put noticeable effort to getting inside.  (Note: If you plan to build a similar mesh lid to keep out raccoons, you will need to latch it securely.)

To learn more about Gorilla Glue and their other products, visit their Facebook page. You’ll also find incredible user-completed projects, safety tips and a handy Gorilla Glue Guide for navigating your own projects.

Leave a comment below for your chance to win a Gorilla Glue Prize Pack! to share your Gorilla Glue stories, but a winner has been chosen for this post.  Thanks!

Gorilla Glue Giveaway – Re-Seat those Wooden Chair Slats with Gorilla Wood Glue

 

This post is #3 in a 5-part series. Thanks to the great folks at Gorilla Glue, The Soil Toil has 5 Gorilla Glue Prize Packs to give away! What’s included in the Prize Pack and how to enter to win is all detailed here.

To enter to win, simply leave a comment on this postA winner was randomly selected on June 15th at 8 am.  However, you can still share what project you have in need of Gorilla Wood Glue or testify to Gorilla Tough awesomeness by telling of projects completed with Gorilla Glue products.  The winner from today’s post will be  randomly selected Friday June 15th, 2012, and announced at 8:00 am EST has already been chosen.

If you blog, tweet, pin, tumblr, Facebook, G+ or StumbleUpon, feel free to leave your site or social media handle in your comment and share the Gorilla Glue contest throughout your networks.

This Gorilla Wood Glue project fills two needs for our back yard garden: one more tomato plant stand and one more place to sit.

The chairs came from our neighbor friends – they set them out in their front yard, bound for the curb.  The chairs looked pretty pathetic, both were coming apart at the seat slats, but one was quite bad.  They chuckled as I asked to have the chairs.  Armed with only a bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue and a rag, it became my mission to reclaim these chairs without tools.

Click the pictures above to view the dual chair repair.

A Few Notes:

1.  Check for fit by fitting the pieces to be glued together before applying any glue.

2.  A proper treatment would have been to take the chairs apart, glue inside the slots where the slats fit, and reconstruct the chairs.  I did not do that.

3.  It’s not shown in the pictures, but I used my foot to gently but firmly bang each chair frame to re-seat the slats.  My rubber mallet would have been ideal but my foot worked well.

4.  Also not shown, I rested the chairs against a wall and set a brick on top in lieu of clamping.

5.  I did not wipe excess glue from around the slats.

6. Read the bottle’s full instructions before using.

I am not a woodworker and this isn’t a woodworking project.  I reclaimed one chair to sit a tomato pot on and another chair to sit people on.  I am quite pleased with how they turned out.  After reading comments on Gorilla Wood Glue’s tough nature, I suspect the chairs will break from old age before the glue bonds fail.

To learn more about Gorilla Wood Glue and their other products, visit their Facebook page. You’ll also find incredible user-completed projects, safety tips and a handy Gorilla Glue Guide for navigating your own projects.

Leave a comment below for your chance to win a Gorilla Glue Prize Pack! to share your Gorilla Glue stories, but a winner has been chosen for this post.  Thanks!

Gorilla Glue Giveaway – Patch that Trashed Plastic Pot with Gorilla Tape

 

This post is #2 in a 5-part series.  Thanks to the great folks at Gorilla Glue, The Soil Toil has 5 Gorilla Glue Prize Packs to give away!  What’s included in the Prize Pack and how to enter to win is all detailed here.

To enter to win, simply leave a comment on this postA winner was randomly selected on June 14th at 8 am.  However, you can still share what project you have in need of Gorilla Tape or testify to Gorilla Glue awesomeness by telling of projects completed with Gorilla Glue products.  The winner from today’s post will be  randomly selected Thursday June 14th, 2012, and announced at 8:00 am EST has already been chosen.

If you blog, tweet, pin, tumblr, Facebook, G+ or stumbleUpon, feel free to leave your site or social media handle in your comment and share the Gorilla Glue contest throughout your networks.

This Gorilla Tape project salvages a broken window-box-sized plastic planter I’ve wanted to use for a few seasons but have never gotten around to repairing.  And, really, I wasn’t sure how I would repair it until getting a hold of the Gorilla Tape 1″ Handy Roll.  Gorilla Tape is very thick with adhesive designed for uneven surfaces and the outer shell is designed to withstands moisture, UV rays and temperature swings.  Can you say perfect for gardening projects?

Click the pictures above to view the crafty plastic planter repair.

A Few Notes:

1. This project is almost silly – holding a very broken planter together is a tall order for any tape.  However, if this lasts until the fall, I will consider this wildly successful.  Garden projects don’t always need to be perfect.

2.  I cut the first few lengths of tape then hand-tore the rest.  While it would probably gum up scissors if cutting tape for a large project, my scissors remained clean after cutting a few tape pieces.  Tearing the tape by hand left very clean edges, they weren’t misshapen or frayed.

3.  This planter is not a huge 15″ is pot repair.  No one gets hurt if this repair fails.

4.  I cut patches from a thick plastic soil bag to cover the holes then used Gorilla Tape outside to hold the patches in place.  I did not use tape inside the pot where it will be constantly moist.

5.  Read the Gorilla Tape package full instructions before using.

This pot’s intended location just happened to be where it had been sitting, on the ground (perched on a drip tray) among wild strawberries.  Once the flowers grow, they’ll be the only thing noticeable about this planter.  It’s not up at eye-level showing the world it’s held together by black tape.  Though, I will probably brag to anyone who listens about this daring little reclamation project.

To learn more about Gorilla Tape and other Gorilla Tough products, visit the Gorilla Glue Company Facebook page.  You’ll also find incredible user-completed projects, safety tips and a handy Gorilla Glue Guide for navigating your own projects.

Leave a comment below for your chance to win a Gorilla Glue Prize Pack! to share your Gorilla Glue stories, but a winner has been chosen for this post.  Thanks!

DIY – Crushing Eggshells Without the Mess

 

Worms like them, tomatoes love them and snails don’t.  Crushed eggshells are the cure-all for the organic (or nearly so) gardener, but what a mess crushing them.

The pictures explain the process, but a few notes before you run for your recycling bin to get started:

1.  Eggshells should be dry.

2.  Boiling them first solves the following issues: attracting flies while they dry, being sticky after drying and attracting pets and rodents once out in the garden.  That said, you don’t have to boil them, I didn’t until recently.  (Water your plants with the water used to boil the shells, it adds calcium to the soil.)

3.  Whether you use an old magazine, catalog or newspaper, eggshells are sharp enough to cut through paper so put them between quite a few layers of paper before you crush.

4.  If making a mess isn’t actually an issue for you, this is a great task for kids with your supervision.

Have fun crushing your eggshells – without the mess.

DIY – Restore Plastic Outdoor Furniture with Oil

Our back yard table came to us through craigslist five or six years ago, our apartment neighbor who tended the yard before me picked it up.

Green, plastic and used for everything – it’s fading and drying out in the sun.  Something greasy settled into it a few weeks ago and I set out to clean it with dish soap today.

After scrubbing it, rubbing it and hosing it down, the largest grease spot that inspired this industrious cleaning was no longer greasy and became the best-looking swath on the old table top.

Ah ha!

I ran upstairs and grabbed the canola oil.

How To Restore Plastic Outdoor Furniture with Oil

1.  Own or inherit worn-out and weathered plastic patio furniture.

2.  Hose it down and dry it off.

3.  Rub it down with mineral oil (preferred) or canola oil (long-term results unknown but it looks good now).

4.  Let it soak in (I let it set in the sun for an hour).

5.  Thriftyfun.com doesn’t wash off the mineral oil but I washed away the canola oil with a soapy rag and water.

6.  Enjoy your slightly-better-looking plastic furniture!

Oh my gosh.  Our weather-beaten plastic table looks five years younger.

Well, except for the wax stains, glue drips and cat scratches.  I’m quite pleased.

What’s Growing – A Few Chilly Days til May

 

DC spring decided to switch gears to cold rain with May a week away.

One last hurrah from the Winter that Never Was.

Checking on the plants in the cold drizzle showed just how far the garden has come since setting the first seed pots in the cold frame two months ago.  April weather dipped cooler more often than March and the seedlings have gone through growth spurts between holding steady.  The cold frame is protective but only gets a few hours of good sun thanks to the rowhouse canyon of our backyard.  Each day their sun time increases thanks to the earth tilting in our favor as spring heads towards summer.  Things are growing, albeit a little slowly.

I’m wildly satisfied.

The Update

1.  Turnips!  The top: March 21st, four days after sowing.  Bottom: April 23rd.  I need to thin them out.

2.  Parsnips!  The right: Radishes alongside the parsnips last week.  Left: Radishes thinned to let the parsnips grow.  Originally sown March 17th.

3.  Beets!  The top: Sown March 17th.  Bottom left: The few that sprouted looking noble last week.  Bottom right: Either heavy rains or a bird flatted two, April 23rd.  Sadly, I need to thin the few that are growing.

4.  The Camilla!  Top: The last bloom hanging on five weeks after the first opened.  Bottom: Those that let go below it, April 23rd.

5.  Zinnias and Marigolds!  Top row: Transplanting them from their egg carton seed pots, around April 4th.  Bottom: They were the first to get kicked out of the cold frame a few weeks ago.  Short, but growing, April 23rd.

6.  Chives blooming!  This herb box welcomes its fifth season with the same chives, thyme (also blooming) and golden sage (not pictured).  I should replant the box but don’t want to touch it (other than my usual fertilizing and mulching), the inhabitants seem happy as is.  It survived Snowmageddon and Snoverkill in 2010.

7.  Mesclun!  Sown March 31st, pictured April 23rd.  Tiny salads at our first 2012 BBQ this Sunday!

8.  Bush Beans!  Top row: Planted by and for toddlers, April 5th.  Mid row: They sprouted(!) April 17th.  Bottom: Thriving, April 23rd.

9.  Wine-Box-O-Root-Veggies!  Top row: Prep, sow, grow (radishes a few days past April 5th sowing).  Mid row:  A few tiny beets on the left, carrots on the right and radishes all over, April 23rd.  Bottom: Carrots in front of radishes, April 23rd.

10.  Onions!  Top: Reclaiming pantry onions for their greens, April 11th.  Bottom: The stalks look great and spinach seeds sprouted alongside, April 23rd.  I’ll harvest the tops as scallions this weekend, they should regrow.

11.  Potatoes!  Left side: Planting a sprouted potato so the foliage will hang off our stair rail (just for looks), April 11th.  Right side: It’s growing, April 23rd.  I do this every year.  The pot is too small and it’s never as lush as the ornamental sweet potatoes, but it grows.  To really grow potatoes, you do it differently.

12.  Fresh seedlings!  Left: Balsam, 10 days after sowing.  Right: Borrage, 10 days after sowing.

13.  Freshly sown!  Trying to slip under the wire with this cold snap: onions, spinach and mesclun, sown April 22nd.

14.  Tomatoes!  I have yet to count how many tomato seedlings we have, same principle as counting chickens before they hatch.  I kicked a few out of the cold frame April 20th and two days later the 48-hr cold rain came.  I huddled them behind the covered bike to protect them from the 40 mph predicted wind gusts, picture April 23rd.

What’s not growing?  Basil.  After fighting off cutworms, they died after transplanting.  They were tiny and I think succumbed to damping off.  I’ll try again in a week or so.  I’ll also direct sow a few in the big tomato pots when the tomatoes are ready for final transplanting.

Not bad.

Not bad, at all.

DIY for Earth Day – More Pot Repair with Gorilla Glue

Earth Day celebrates what you can do daily to help the environment.  Repairing items instead of throwing them away runs deep in our family.

You don’t always need tools to make repairs.  I have an arsenal of adhesives around the house and at our DC record store, Som Records, but I’ve found Gorilla Glue works particularly well for repairing terra cotta (clay) pots.

I posted about pot repair a month ago but this is so easy (and replacing pots adds up), here’s yet more incentive to repair your own.

This is a two-for-one.  We found a large pot left for trash on the curb with a big crack down its center.  The pot was still in one piece but would break if filled with soil.  This is where Super Glue just won’t work.  Super Glue (or Krazy Glue, etc) won’t fill gaps between two pieces but Gorilla Glue expands as it dries, making it perfect for this job.

The medium-sized pot is ours.  I left it out over winter and it cracked from the few freezes we had.  It’s cracked down the side and the bottom is completely separated.

The previous post gives detailed notes on using Gorilla Glue, but the captions here should guide your way.

Note:  I am a known over-gluer.  I overkill it with the glue just to make super sure it all holds.  You don’t have to use this much glue, the bottle directions warn to use sparingly.

Disclaimer:  I am not affiliated with Gorilla Glue, but we do share some love on twitter and follow each other.

Seeds – The Toddlers Say “Grow, Beans, Grow!”

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Miss B (mine) and our buddy, Mr. O, got a good look at their beans pushing through the soil today.

They were thrilled. They both kept coming back to get another look.

In the two weeks since we planted them, we gather round the little basket they’re in and chant “Grow, beans, grow!” whenever we’re in the back yard.

They both stood over the beans this morning pointing, beaming, giggling, and gave a believing “GROW, BEANS, GROW!”

DIY – Bottle + Can Vase Bank for Fresh Cut Flowers and Herbs

Unless I suddenly kill all my seedlings, I will have a nice selection of flowers and herbs to cut come summer.  We have negative counter and table space (I have to move stuff to make room to do anything), so where to put vases is always a challenge.

I came across A Can Can and started hoarding cans.  I even asked our neighbors for their cans since we don’t go through that many.

I got an idea to solve my lack of vase space issue.  I would mount cans on the wall to hold bottles as vases.  We rent and the walls are drywall, so the less holes the better.

The solution: The Bottle + Can Bank

Mounting the cans shoulder to shoulder along a plank would enable me to use only two screws to attach the whole thing to the wall instead of a screw for each can.

I made this about six weeks ago and love it.

It took multiple sessions since I can’t really do anything for more than an hour at a time with the toddler at my heels.  Once you get your cans and bottles ready to go, it’s a perfect weekend project.

A Few Notes:

- Soak the labels off your bottles. Goo Gone is great for those weird plastic labels that don’t soak off (heating them in hot water will soften the adhesive and allow you to peel off the label but the adhesive left behind won’t scrub off without solvent).

- Most can labels come off without much (if any) soaking.

- I washed my cans out and let them air dry as a little test. I didn’t use the ones that rusted. Though, a nice rustic patina might be just what want.

- To fix the burr left from the can opener, crimp it flat with pliers then apply a fat drop of clear nail polish to smooth it over. Pesky burrs can get multiple layers of nail polish, letting each dry between applications. If your pliers might rough up your cans, place a rag between the pliers mouth and the outside of the can where you’re crimping the burr. Practice on a can you don’t plan to use.

- You’ll need to punch a hole in each can where the screw will hold it to the wood.  Make the hole about a half-inch below the can lip to make the screw less noticeable.

- Don’t punch the screw hole too far below the can lip or it will be very difficult to screw the screw into the wood (your screwdriver or drill will be at too much of an angle to engage the screw head if your screw is too deep inside the can).

- Use a primer paint designed for metal, it will provide a lasting base. I overkilled it with primer and a coat of neutral spray paint I found in my paint stash. I finished with a final coat of interior matte white latex I painted on with 2″ brush. It was free from a neighbor and I liked the texture from the cheap IKEA paint brush.

- Whether using a screwdriver or drill, use care attaching the cans to the wood with the screws or you’ll mar the paint on the cans.

- I got my wood as scrap.  A little sanding can give old wood a new life.  I left mine bare but painting is easy enough.

- Leave two cans unattached so you can hide the screws that mount the wood to the wall behind them. Offset those wall screws from the centerline of the hiding cans so your cans will lay flush when you attach them (after mounting the wood to the wall).

- On Pinterest I found a mirror hanging trick.  It’s similar to how I mark anchor placement when fixing wood to drywall and don’t have a helper.  You can sink the wall attachment screws through the wood so they poke out the backside just enough to mark the wall where you want to sink your drywall anchors, about 1/8 -1/4 of an inch.  Position the wood, tap the screws with your hammer to mark the wall, set the wood aside and sink your drywall anchors (or masonry anchors if installing into brick or concrete) at the marks.  Match the wood and screws back up with the drywall anchors and screw them in.

- Two screws through the wood into drywall anchors about 6 inches in from both ends provided sufficient support for the size of my plank.

The late day sun comes in through our back windows and just adores our kitchen. I built the vase bank (the vasery sounds better but I made that word up) to live alongside our kitchen table and the long rays of light writes love letters to it.

I could devote an entire tumblr to this.

I am obsessed with the Trader Joe’s 10 Stem Alstroemeria bouquet.  It lasts 10 – 14 days, and for $3.99, it can’t be beat.  It’s also like an archaic clock telling me when I need to make a trip to TJ’s.  The petals fall off and – Hey what do you know! – it’s time to go to Trader Joe’s!

Soon, like a bank of elevators bearing summer delights, this will present fresh herbs and awesome flowers from our own garden.

DIY – Seedling Transplant Pots from Cartons

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When your seedlings have two or three sets of true leaves, it’s time to transplant into bigger pots. If you started seed in egg cartons, you may need to transplant as soon as the first set of true leaves get a little size to them.

Plastic nursery pots are great but you can also pull milk cartons and soup/soy milk/coco water Tetra Paks from your recycling bin. The seedlings will only be in these for a few weeks but they need good drainage. I punched holes in the bottom with my awl but would have also gone up the sides if I had seen this great how-to before I completed the transplanting.

Intermediate seed pots should be at least 3 inches wide. I made mine 4 – 6 inches deep to be about the size of my old nursery pots.  You want them deeper than what your seeds started in.  I also used a few paper coffee cups and ice cream pints (not pictured).

A follow-up on potting seedlings will come tomorrow.